If I had to identify the fragrance ‘of the moment’, without doubt it would be Diptyque’s Philosykos. I’ve tried it several times. Although the smell itself doesn’t directly appeal to me, it’s interesting to get to grips with its popularity.
Philosykos has only two listed notes; fig and cedar. So it appears much ‘purer’ and simpler than many of its forerunners. The new IFRA restrictions on perfume ingredients have been widely met with consternation by commentators on the perfume industry. However, as a consumer, I don’t want to be applying anything to my skin that might be harmful; carcinogenic or otherwise. The IFRA rules have been generated by public pressure, not only for more information about what’s included in perfume, but for harmful products to be banned. The take home message for perfume manufacturers should be that consumers want a more natural product, and yes if it’s ethical, sustainable, etc etc, so much the better.
In many ways current consumer demands are matched perfectly by the products that the Diptyque range has to offer. The fragrances are based on natural substances, usually fruit and other food. They appear to contain very few ingredients, which implies a more natural, less chemical product. Their packaging has an intentionally home-made feel to it. So immediately you assume that it’s ethically produced by a small family business or such-like.
The Philosykos fragrance itself is very unusual. Very few mainstream perfumes are based on fig. The only other one that I’ve come across is Hermes’ Un Jardin en Méditerranée. Many reviewers describe Philosykos as smelling, not just of the fig fruit, but of the fig tree, the branches, the leaves and the soil itself. So Philosykos represents a wholesome, non-sweet, fruit fragrance that typifies our modern concerns with an organic and wholesome approach to life.
Philosykos has been in production since 1996. The perfumer is Olivia Giacobetti. Giacobetti created another fig fragrance, namely Premier Figuier for L’Artisan Parfumeur. It’s interesting how some perfumers carry a theme through their work – often improving it along the way.
Philosykos embodies the next generation of perfumes. It’s isn’t musk or amber based. It’s not floral, or fruity in the traditional sense. While CK one, L’Eau D’Issey and the fragrances we associate with the 1990s smelt of natural elements, they were still chemically based. The new generation of fragrances will be not only of naturally occurring aromas, but created by natural ingredients.
As it’s impossible to resist the allure of the Diptyque brand, I treated myself to the Diptyque hand balm. Beaume Genereux is rich in Apricot Kernel oil. It smells terrific and leaves my rough hands feeling extremely smooth.